Mt.. Ama Dablam (6812m), one of the most astonishing peaks in the world, falls in the Khumbu region of Nepal. An expedition to Ama Dablam is technically demanding as it is all icy and rocky. This expedition offers a superb and technical climbing experience.
We will first make our way up to Island Peak to acclimatize to the environment at a higher altitude before climbing Ama Dablam. The usual way to get there is from its south-west ridge, which offers you a beautiful panorama view of the mountains around the Ama Dablam.
We ascend to the Amadablam via the southwestern ridge which is the route followed by Bishop (US), Ward (UK), and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain. This is considered a standard ascent to Amadablam. This route offers a diverse and sustained climb with a reasonable level of difficulty. We will set up three camps at strategic points. From the summit, out of the six highest peaks in the world, five highest peaks are visible, which are Mt Lhotse, Mt. Lhotse Shar, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho – Oyu, and Mt. Everest, and also a close view of Nuptse, Baruntse, and Pumori.
Our climb will be moderate up to Camp -1, but then it gets more challenging up along the narrow granite ridge. Our climb will be more technical from Camp 2 and we skirt around the hanging glacier from Camp 3 to the Amadablam to scale the summit. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing, followed by a long, steep snow slope. Due to the technical nature of the route, it requires 3500 meters of fixed rope and three camps above the base camp. Normally, the climb is completed in less than four weeks. However, we do build in an extra few days in case of an unexpected change in the weather.
